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Indian Food in London: Gymkhana and a Journey Across India

Explore Gymkhana and travel through Indian food traditions from Punjab and Gujarat to South India, plus how British curry culture developed its own identity.

20 Oct 20268 min read1,670 words
In this guide
  1. Mayfair is the departure point, not the destination
  2. North: tandoors, butter chicken and the Punjabi table
  3. West: a Gujarati thali changes the meaning of a meal
  4. South: fermented batter, rice and the logic of dosa and idli
  5. London again: how Britain turned Indian food into something of its own

Indian food in Britain is so familiar that it is easy to forget how much complexity sits behind the word “Indian”. A curry-house menu can make the cuisine look like one national collection of sauces, breads and rice dishes, but India contains many different food regions shaped by climate, religion, trade, agriculture, migration and language. A strong London starting point is Gymkhana in Mayfair. The Michelin Guide’s 2026 London list awards Gymkhana Two MICHELIN Stars and classifies it as Indian. That makes it one of the clearest examples of high-end Indian cooking in Greater London, but it should be treated as a departure point rather than a complete definition of Indian food. To understand the cuisine properly, it is more useful to travel through regions: north through Punjabi and Mughlai influences, west into Gujarati vegetarian traditions, south into fermented rice-and-lentil foods, and then back to London to see how Britain developed its own Indian restaurant culture.

Mayfair is the departure point, not the destination

Gymkhana’s Two-MICHELIN-Star status places Indian cooking at the top end of London dining, but the restaurant’s real value for this discussion is that it reminds diners that Indian food can be both deeply traditional and highly refined.

British diners have had contact with Indian food for centuries. The British Library’s historical material on Regency London records the Hindostanee Coffee House, often described as London’s first Indian restaurant, operating in the early nineteenth century. Later waves of South Asian migration, restaurant entrepreneurship and changing British tastes turned Indian food into one of the most important parts of the UK’s dining culture.

That history created both opportunity and distortion. The advantage was familiarity: generations of British diners learned to enjoy spices, rice dishes, kebabs, chutneys and curries. The disadvantage was simplification. The word “curry” became a catch-all for dishes that in India may belong to very different regions, techniques and traditions.

Modern Michelin-recognised restaurants such as Gymkhana challenge that simplification because they present Indian food with the same seriousness applied to French or Japanese fine dining. Yet high-end presentation should not obscure the fact that much Indian cooking is rooted in home kitchens, street food, religious practice and regional agriculture.

That is why Mayfair is a useful place to begin but a poor place to stop. The real story starts when the map opens up.

North: tandoors, butter chicken and the Punjabi table

North India contains many distinct cuisines, but Punjabi food is especially familiar to British diners. Incredible India’s material on Jalandhar describes a food culture shaped by Punjabi, Mughlai and North Indian traditions, including tandoori chicken, biryani, kebabs, butter chicken and sweets such as jalebi and gulab jamun.

The tandoor is central to this food world. It is a cylindrical clay oven that can reach intense heat, allowing bread to cook against the wall while meat roasts rapidly on skewers. Naan, tandoori chicken and kebabs all benefit from the combination of heat, smoke and char.

Butter chicken is another famous northern restaurant dish. Its appeal comes from the contrast between smoky cooked chicken and a rich tomato-butter sauce. In Britain, it sits comfortably alongside dishes such as chicken tikka masala, even though the two have different histories and identities.

Biryani adds another historical layer. India’s official tourism material describes multiple stories about how layered rice-and-meat dishes developed. One legend links biryani to the army of Timur; another points to Arab traders on the Malabar coast. These stories should be treated as traditions rather than settled proof of one single invention.

The advantage of North Indian restaurant food is immediate accessibility. Tandoor cooking, rich gravies and breads create strong flavours that travel well into restaurant settings. The disadvantage is that international success can make North Indian food look synonymous with all Indian cuisine.

A Punjabi table also includes dals, vegetables, pickles, breads and dairy in ways that are easily overlooked when British menus focus mainly on meat curries. The region’s food is therefore broader than the dishes that became famous abroad.

West: a Gujarati thali changes the meaning of a meal

Travel west to Gujarat and the structure of the meal changes dramatically. Incredible India describes the Gujarati thali as a complete plate that can include several vegetable dishes, sprouted pulses, rice, kadhi, dal, rotis, poori, papad, salad, chutney, pickles and sweets.

The thali is not simply a large plate of unrelated items. Its logic is balance. Sweet, salty, sour and spicy flavours can appear together, and different textures sit side by side. Seasonal ingredients and local dietary traditions shape the combinations.

Vegetarian food has deep roots in Gujarat, including strong Jain cultural influence. That matters because vegetarian eating here is not simply a modern lifestyle choice added to an existing meat-heavy cuisine. It is structurally embedded in many traditional food practices.

Dhokla, thepla, farsan, undhiyu and khakhra show how broad that vegetarian tradition can be. Fermentation, steaming, frying, flatbreads, pulses and vegetables create variety without relying on meat as the centre of the meal.

The advantage of the thali format is completeness. A diner experiences several flavours and food groups in one sitting. The disadvantage is that someone unfamiliar with the format may see the plate as chaotic because there is no single “main course” dominating the centre.

That difference creates an interesting contrast with mainstream British dining. A British restaurant meal has traditionally been organised around one main plate for each person, while a thali presents multiple small preparations simultaneously. The diner moves between them rather than progressing through starter, main and dessert in a strict sequence.

It also shows why “Indian vegetarian food” should not be treated as a compromise. In regions such as Gujarat, vegetarian cooking is a mature cuisine in its own right.

South: fermented batter, rice and the logic of dosa and idli

Move south and the familiar British curry-house image becomes even less useful. Official tourism material for Chennai and Kanchipuram highlights rice, lentils, coconut, curry leaves and fermented batters as important parts of South Indian food traditions.

Dosa is one of the most recognisable dishes. A batter of rice and black gram is fermented and cooked thinly on a hot surface, producing something that can be crisp at the edges and soft inside. It is often served with sambar and chutneys.

Idli uses similar core ingredients but turns them into soft steamed cakes. Vada introduces a fried, savoury legume-based element, while sambar provides a tangy lentil-and-vegetable stew flavoured with tamarind and spices.

These foods show how fermentation can shape texture and flavour without the heavy sauces associated with many British ideas about Indian food. A dosa meal can feel light, acidic and crisp rather than rich and creamy.

The advantage is variety in texture and digestibility. Fermented batters, steamed foods and vegetable-based accompaniments create a very different eating experience from tandoori meat or butter-heavy North Indian dishes. The disadvantage, from a restaurant operator’s perspective, is that fermented batter requires timing and consistency; the process begins long before the customer orders.

South India is itself far too diverse to reduce to dosa and idli. Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana all contain multiple regional cuisines. Coastal areas use seafood extensively. Coconut may be prominent in some regions and much less so in others. Spice profiles vary enormously.

This diversity is exactly why a north-to-south journey is useful. By the time the diner reaches South India, the idea of one “Indian curry” has already stopped making sense.

London again: how Britain turned Indian food into something of its own

Return to London and the story becomes hybrid. Britain did not simply import Indian food unchanged. South Asian migrants, restaurant owners and British customers created new dishes, service styles and expectations together.

The British Library’s South Asian Britain material documents a long history of South Asian presence in the UK, while restaurant culture became increasingly visible through the twentieth century. Veeraswamy, for example, appears in British Library historical material from the 1920s and remains part of London’s long Indian restaurant story.

VisitBritain even identifies the Birmingham balti as a British-developed Indian-style dish, commonly claimed to have emerged in the city in the late 1970s. Whether every detail of the origin story is settled is less important than the broader point: British Indian food became its own culinary category.

This helps explain why UK and Indian eating habits can feel both similar and different. Indian family meals often place several dishes on the table together with rice, breads and accompaniments. Mainstream British dining historically gave more importance to individually plated meals. Yet British curry restaurants encouraged sharing long before “sharing plates” became fashionable elsewhere.

Eating with the hand is culturally normal in many Indian settings, particularly with breads or rice, while British dining defaults more strongly to cutlery. Tea is central to both countries, but Indian chai culture, roadside tea stalls and spiced milk tea differ from traditional British tea habits.

Breakfast is another example of regional diversity. In parts of the south, idli and dosa are common breakfast foods; in parts of the north, paratha may be more familiar; elsewhere poha, upma and many other dishes appear. There is no single Indian breakfast, just as modern Britain no longer has one universal morning meal.

The advantage of Britain’s adaptation of Indian food is cultural integration. Indian dishes became part of everyday British life rather than remaining specialist immigrant food. The disadvantage is that hybrid restaurant culture sometimes hides regional origins, leaving diners familiar with “curry” but unfamiliar with the enormous differences between Punjab, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Kerala or Bengal.

Gymkhana represents another stage in that evolution. Its Two-MICHELIN-Star status shows that Indian cooking in London is no longer judged only through the lens of takeaway comfort food. At the same time, the most important lesson is not about stars. It is that Indian cuisine makes more sense as a journey across regions than as one menu category.

Sources: Michelin Guide 2026, Incredible India regional food material, British Library South Asian Britain resources, and VisitBritain.

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